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Camping Beaches
By Trevor Paetkau, Thu Dec 8th

Alas, ye old hippy ... endless sand, driftwood shacks and longnights passed in a ganga haze are getting harder and harder tosource.

Once the defining notion of a life without strings, setting upcamp on a beach is no longer a simple matter... it requiresplanning and effort, and even then, the man may have arrivedfirst.

Said old hippy will recall the days when Long Beach on VancouverIsland was awash in tie-dye, macrame and a come-what-may vibe.Modern day libertarians are faced with a different tune. LongBeach has long been closed to camping, and those beaches thatare still open require a kayak or backpack to

get to, and awillingness to play by the rules.

(Article continued below)

Here's a quote from the BC Parks Service admonishing those whoplunk themselves down without proper regard for authority

... random campers will be asked to move to one of thedesignated campsites. Camping in areas other than designatedcampsites is a violation under various Acts, which are rigidlyenforced ...

Ouch; and they want money to boot. Likewise, in the US theNational Park Service makes it clear that, while camping may bestill be allowed in some of their parks, its not going to bemuch fun:

Open fires are prohibited; use a backcountry stove for cooking.Campsites must be north of the primary dune, not in sight of thebeach, in a sandy area with no vegetation, and at least one mileinside the wilderness boundary. There are limited dune crossingsfrom the wilderness to the beach. Dogs and other pets are notallowed during plover nesting season: March 1 - Labor Day; atother times they are permitted but must be on a 6' leash at alltimes.

So much for bringing the dog. And, lest the old hippy begins tothink such restrictions are a North American phenomena, the sameofficious government meddlers have applied rules and regulationsto beaches in Thailand, Costa Rica, Australia, South Africa andjust about anywhere else intrepid freedom lovers may choose togather.

Restrictions, of course, make sense; peripatetic wanderers havecolonized the globe to the degree that there is no place trulyuntouched. The idea that an individual can "leave no trace" hasbeen largely discounted, and even those who make the attemptmust still admit, that as their numbers increase, the idealbecomes only that; an ideal and not a practical reality.

No matter what we may wish, or say, or do, our passing leaves animprint on the environment, and this is particularly true of thepristine environments nature lovers most covet. Everymountaineer knows the disappointment of having attained a summitonly to find bootprints left by the previous party. Likewise,every sailor, kayaker and canoer can relate stories of runninginto long lost classmates 7 days from put-in. Unbelievably,Mount Rainier National Park plays host to more than 2 millionvisitors a year.

With that in mind, old gray beard shouldn't be surprised thathe's been caught in the corral. So what's he to do?

"Work harder, go further, don't get caught." Such is the adviceoffered by those who pursue those pristine beaches with apassion.

Isla Espiritu Santo, just off La Paz on the Baja Peninsulaproves the point. Designated a global conservation priority byThe Nature Conservancy, it has all the qualities a adventuretraveler may wish. It, and the surrounding islands arechock-a-block with picturesque beaches, mangrove lagoons, rockformations and sea life. They are also chock-a-block witheco-tour groups, charter boats, and an assortment of independenttravelers intent on getting their fix of mother nature.

And therein lies the challenge ... while its possible to find adeserted beach one must be prepared to make more effort than thealmost anybody else to get there. In the Sea of Cortez, whatthis means is finding an Island with no water supply, and justthat much further off the beaten path, than the organized tourscompanies are prepared to push their guests.

Likewise, Playa Naranjo in Costa Rica, a beautiful,kilometers-long, pale gray sand beach that is legendary insurfing lore for its steep, powerful tubular waves and forWitches Rock rising like a sentinel out of the water is on themap ... it is every bit worth the effort, but be forewarned,others have been there before. Off season may just be the besttime to go ...

Getting Away With It ...

So that said, it's Thursday afternoon and you've got a deeplonging to hop in a woody, drive less than two hours, and set upcamp in the sand. To get away with it you're going to need someluck and some planning. Here's what you do --

- arrive after dark

- go solo or in pairs - small groups attract less attention

- keep a low profile - a low tent behind a dune is much lessvisible than a 6 person department store special

- no fires - damn!

- no light - have you ever seen tent lit from within?

- no noise - the stereo stays at home

- clean up after yourself - no trash, no trail, no evidence

In short, act like that old hippy should have acted 20 years;respect the beach and respect those that follow.

About the author:In addition to his lifelong interest in the outdoors recreationcommunity, Trevor Paetkau is the proprietor of Moraine AdventureBooks, an independent source of Adventure Travel,and OutdoorRecreation articles, advice, books and resources.

 

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